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Bomber jacket muslin

Project overview

Name Bomber jacket muslin
Status in progress
Happiness
Started Jul 17, 2021
Completed
Progress 80 %
Privacy public
Notes This looks fine when I'm standing still, but I can't raise my arms or reach forward. In the picture with my arms raised, that's as high as they can go.

I think Lekala's saddle-shoulder raglan draft just doesn't work for me. This muslin is way too tight across the upper biceps, so I can't move my arms hardly at all. The last saddle raglan pattern I tried from Lekala had the same problem. This time I don't think the problem is with the measurements I entered. Others have not complained about this, so maybe it's a problem with grading down to my measurements, which are both narrow and petite (short). (Or maybe the other people made fitting adjustments.)

I like the placket that sits behind the zipper. Neat looking and easy to install. It does mean you need a zipper of exactly the right length or it'll look funny.

The pattern has a front bust dart that isn't shown in the line drawing. I did an SBA and removed the dart. This is my first time doing something like that.

Users Comments

  • Evie

    Hi
    I can understand your frustration. I use lekala because I have found it so difficult to make adjustments on standard pattern sizes.
    Have you tried using the optional corrections in the measurements when ordering your pattern?
    It allows for you to increase or decrease parts of the pattern without changing your measurements. Maybe an increase or decrease in shoulder width, back width or breast width depending on your proportions would help.
    I choose a reduced breast width when ordering a top pattern from lekala. Commercially made clothes always gaped across the front between the shoulders on me even when they fitted everywhere else, but using that adjustment when sewing my own has solved the problem.

  • Evie

    Hi
    I can understand your frustration. I use lekala because I have found it so difficult to make adjustments on standard pattern sizes.
    Have you tried using the optional corrections in the measurements when ordering your pattern?
    It allows for you to increase or decrease parts of the pattern without changing your measurements. Maybe an increase or decrease in shoulder width, back width or breast width depending on your proportions would help.
    I choose a reduced breast width when ordering a top pattern from lekala. Commercially made clothes always gaped across the front between the shoulders on me even when they fitted everywhere else, but using that adjustment when sewing my own has solved the problem.

  • AnnieE

    Thanks JdT! I could try that. I've actually already ripped this apart, but I think it was binding across the back as well as under the arms. But I could raise the armholes and maybe add some ease to the back. I'll think about it for next time.

  • JdT

    Hello,
    I am sorry for your struggle. I often have some. I have noticed when I can’t lift my arms it is not always because it is tight biceps but because of too large armholes that blocks sleeves movement. If I lift armpit adding some fabric back in, I gain much more movement. You could try that

  • AnnieE

    -I think Lekala's saddle-shoulder raglan draft just doesn't work for me. It's way too tight across the upper biceps, so I can't move my arms hardly at all. This time I don't think the problem is with the measurements I entered. Others have not complained about this, so maybe it's a problem with drafting down to my very small and petite measurements. (Or maybe they made fitting adjustments.)
    -I like the placket that sits behind the zipper. Neat looking and easy to install. It does mean you need a zipper of exactly the right length or it'll look funny.

  • AnnieE

    -there's a front bust dart that isn't shown in the line drawing. I did an SBA and removed the dart. This is my first time doing something like that.