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Lekala 4457 in white rayon challis and black crepe

Project overview

Name Lekala 4457 in white rayon challis and black crepe
Status finished
Happiness
Started Apr 6, 2016
Completed Apr 10, 2016
Progress 100 %
Privacy public
Notes This was my second Lekala pattern to make. I used the pattern as-is, from my measurements, without any additional fitting or tailoring. The blouse is quite loose, with a lot of ease at the sides. I prefer a slightly closer-fitting silhouette, so I took in about an inch at each side, and it's still pretty loose. This would be a good blouse to wear tucked into a pencil skirt or skinny pants. Lots of colorblocking possibilities: for example, it would be cool to make the collar portion out of lace, the yoke from a sheer chiffon, the bottom part from a solid opaque fabric, and maybe something else for the plackets. Endless options!

Fabric requirements: For my measurements (37" full bust, 30" waist, 39" hips), the custom pattern required about 1.125 yards (60" wide) of main fabric, and about .67 yards (60" wide) for the contrast yoke. If you happen to be making it out of all one fabric (no contrast), it would require about 1.375 yards (60" wide). Hope this helps some folks estimate their fabric needs (if your measurements are similar).

Optional lining (not part of the instructions): Because of the semi-sheer fabrics I chose -- and because I will be wearing this in an environment where I can't have my bra showing through the lace -- I ended up lining the bottom part (white challis) as well as the yoke (black crepe fabric). This would not be necessary in other fabrics, but in case anyone is interested, I used a lining technique similar to that described on the Colette website: https://www.sewalongs.com/aster/sewing-the-aster-yoke. It's kind of hard to describe, but you basically roll up the fabric into a taquito shape while you sew the yoke seams, then turn everything right side out, and, magically, you have a fully lined yoke! Neat.

Other deviations from the pattern: I hemmed the sleeve with rayon seam binding, using a catch stitch, in order to harmonize with the delicate crepe textile. See 5th photo. Again, not necessary for other fabrics, but needed here. I think that's it -- everything else was done according to pattern.

Impressions: Great blouse! The curved yoke, whose points meet in the center front, may present a challenge for a beginner, but intermediate/advanced sewists will have no problems. It's a really cool design, unlike any I've seen elsewhere.

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